As you get older, you’ve probably noticed some change in your skin; specifically, those pesky dark patches that pop up for seemingly no reason. All of a sudden you have gone from an even skintone to something more patchy and it can be a nightmare to get rid of it.
There are a number of different reasons for this sudden change in skin. It could be post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or maybe it’s sun damage, or perhaps it could be age spots. But it could also be melasma which is a little more difficult to treat.
Enter Charlotte Ralph, skincare expert extraordinaire, and the practice manager and dermal laser clinical educator for Contour Clinics Brisbane. We sat down for a chat with Charlotte about all things melasma, and what ingredients you need to be looking for to help even out your skin tone.
What is melasma?
“Melasma is a common skin concern we see in clinic. Melasma is caused by an overproduction of pigment from pigment producing cells (melanocytes) and is characterised by patches of discoloration and pigment across both sides of the face and can also be seen around the mouth (peri oral melasma), under the eyes (peri orbital melasma) and on the forehead.
“It is also known as a hormonal pigmentation due to the strong association with worsening during pregnancy or some medications.”
What are your options when treating melasma?
“Treating Melasma is tricky, even in the most expert of hands which is why it is important to seek an experienced professional as treating this condition with standard depigmentation therapies can make it significantly worse.”
“It’s also important to try and narrow down individual triggers which usually come down to two factors: radiation—whether that’s UV light, or infrared (heat) light—and hormones. Figuring out which type it is can help practitioners formulate a tailored treatment plan to reduce adverse reactions or worsening the condition.”
“Melasma is best treated with a combination of therapies. The first step is to turn off your overactive pigment producing cells (melanocytes) by using a pigment inhibiting cream for two weeks prior to any treatment. Once completed, treatment can then start which includes:
- Strict photoprotection. This includes avoidance of sunlight, sunscreen with SPF 50+, wide brimmed hats etc
- TCA chemical peels
- Prescription lightening agents with a combination of hydroquinone and kojic acid.
- Lasers: The two options here are Fraxel laser and q-switch laser. We believe the q-switch laser is by far the best for treating melasma. Treatments MUST be on a very low setting; hence you will need 5-10 sessions spaced 2 weeks apart for optimal results.
“One thing that’s important to note: IPL should never be used on melasma. IPL works by firing light energy into the skin, which is converted to heat. This heat stimulates already overactive melanocytes to produce more pigment, making it a terrible option for melasma pigment.”
What ingredients should we look for to treat melasma at home?
“The best at-home product you could use if you have Melasma is SUNSCREEN! Finding a daily SPF 50+ that works for you and sticking with it long term will be the best advice I can give.
“Other pigment inhibitors or ingredients that inhibit tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for the first step in melanin production) are ingredients such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide, and prescription compounds of hydroquinone and tretinoin. My favourite product is Dermaceutic’s Mela Cream which is available at Contour Clinics Brisbane.”
About Contour Clinics
With several acclaimed clinics in Sydney, Contour Clinics has finally hit our shores in Brisbane with their luxurious Stones Corner location. The team are dedicated to leading you through your own personalised self-improvement journey, with a holistic approach to cosmetic medicine. Contour Clinics are a doctor-led cosmetic clinic where all treatments are performed by qualified medical professionals. Your cosmetic concerns will be addressed with the latest technology and techniques in mind. The Contour Clinics team is at the forefront of non-surgical cosmetic treatment developments and has a culture of education and ongoing professional development.
About Charlotte Ralph
After graduating with high distinction from Torrens University with a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) degree, Charlotte is now both the practice manager of Contour Clinics Brisbane as well Contour’s dermal laser clinical educator. Charlotte brings a genuine passion for skin health and cosmetic medicine and values the understanding of individual patient needs, creating tailored treatment plans for a transformative skin journey.
Charlotte enjoys using a multi-modality approach including devices like Radio Frequency Skin Needling, IPL and LASER paired with chemical peels, advanced skincare regimens and at the heart of it, education. Charlotte’s warm nature will make you feel right at home and she can’t wait to welcome you into the clinic!
In her spare time, she likes long walks down the makeup aisle and performing in Brisbane theatre. You can follow her adventures on Instagram and TikTok @thebeautypalate.
