Hidden away from the Turbot St frontage of Hotel Indigo is a unique Japanese inspired dining experience set to make your mouth water. Welcome to Izakaya Publico, a stylish, art-filled space with an equally stylish menu. 

To get to the secret restaurant, we head into the foyer of the hotel and up to the first floor, through the cosy speakeasy 1603 Bar to what I nicknamed the grand staircase. Sprawling below is a polished concrete palace, colourful murals adoring the walls and an open kitchen. I always love a bit of an open kitchen; it’s exciting to see the chefs at work putting all the delicious morsels together. We’re seated at a gorgeous booth right in the centre of the room with a perfect view of the cooking action too.

On the night we dine, my companion and I are indulging a bit with a Superior Set Menu. Priced at $80 per person, the menu features a feast of delights, served degustation style along with a choice of a selection of alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages. We choose a highball of the Japanese whiskey and start our meal off with a bang. 

Edamame at Izakaya Publico
This edamame may be the most moorish thing I can remember eating.

First up is a bowl of edamame with brown butter and house togarashi, a spice blend consisting of chilli flakes, sesame seeds and seaweed. It adds a creamy, fiery kick of umami to the beloved favourite accompaniment and I can’t get enough. I am still nibbling on these even after my belly is well and truly full and the meal is over. 

Next up we have some kingfish sashimi with jalapeno salsa and yuzu soy. Well, my companion does. I requested no seafood so for me I have fried camembert with some quince paste which is … well, let’s just say I will be dreaming about this one too. My dining companion quite likes the sashimi and says it has lots of flavor. 

Fried camembert and kingfish sashimi at at Izakaya Publico
Kingfish sashimi in front, and I am still dreaming of the fried camembert in the background.

Then we have some pork gyoza, pan fried to perfection and served with negi. Gyoza has always been one of my comfort foods so this one really hits the spot for me. The juciness of the meat combined with the flavorsome negi (which is a japanese long onion) are a perfect pairing. 

Pork gyoza at Izakaya Publico
Mmmm gyoza.

During the meal we are served an enormous plate of tempura vegetables that looks both artistic and delicious. Then a second plate of said veggies arrives at our table and, wow, that is a lot of vegetables! Excellent value for money but absolutely no idea how we are going to get through them all. 

tempura vegetables at at Izakaya Publico
Is this not the most artistic that funghi and vegetables have ever looked?

Next up it’s time for all kinds of yum on skewers. Think tsukune (or chicken meatball skewers), eringi (king oyster mushroom on skewers with garlic teriyaki),  butta barra (or pork belly with yuzu miso) and black garlic teriyaki salmon. My salmon is swapped out for a particularly succulent teriyaki chicken because of the no seafood thing. Since I am a massive fan of all food on sticks, this part of the meal is particularly satisfying. The pork belly is juicy and bursting with flavour, as are the meatballs. The garlic really adds a nice richness to the marinade and I pity anyone settling close to me after the meal because I mop up every skerrick. 

teriyaki skewers and pork belly at at Izakaya Publico
Skewers, skewers and more skewers.

At the end of it all, I am so full I am worried someone has to roll me back up the grand staircase. And yet I am still eating the edamame because the spices on top are addictive and I can. Not. Stop. 

I am already planning my next visit to Izakaya Publico with a group of friends I think would absolutely love it. I also want to come back and have a few drinks at the bar overlooking Turbot Street. It’s definitely a hidden gem and a must-visit in the Brisbane dining scene. 

Elizabeth Best

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