If you’ve ever stared at your face in natural light and thought, “Hey, when did that patch show up?”, welcome, friend, to the freckled club of melasma and pigmentation! I’ve been a reluctant member for years. Despite my best SPF-50-and-hat-wearing intentions, I’ve collected more uneven patches than a vintage denim jacket. So, in the name of both journalism and vanity, I decided to test the Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum for three months to see if it could dial down the splotch. It’s available at Mecca in Australia and and it’s whispered about in beauty circles as THE holy grail when it comes to uneven skin tone. But before we get to the juicy before-and-afters, let’s talk about what’s actually going on under the skin.
What even is melasma?
Melasma is basically your skin’s way of saying, “Surprise! Hormones and sunlight are besties.” It’s a form of hyperpigmentation — those brownish, greyish patches that tend to appear on the cheeks, upper lip, forehead, or chin. It’s especially common in women, and often triggered by things such as pregnancy, the pill, or UV exposure (so, you know, life).
Scientifically speaking, melasma happens when your melanocytes (the cells that make pigment) go into overdrive, producing extra melanin in certain areas. Imagine someone forgot to turn off the pigment tap — that’s melasma. And once it’s there, it’s… well, clingy. It doesn’t just fade away on a whim; you have to coax it, bribe it, and occasionally threaten it with acids and serums.
How to treat it (without losing your mind)
First, sun protection. Every. Single. Day. SPF 50, hat, shade — the full vampire fantasy. Because if UV light even glances your face, those pigment cells will sprint back into action faster than you can say “retinol.”
Second, brightening ingredients are your best allies (pun extremely intended). Look for:
- tranexamic acid: helps calm the inflammation that drives pigment production.
- arbutin: a gentle but effective melanin inhibitor.
- niacinamide: brightens and strengthens your barrier so you can keep using the actives.
- vitamin C: an antioxidant that tells dullness to take a seat.
- retinoids: the long-game players that boost cell turnover (but require patience and a good moisturiser).
And third, consistency. Melasma treatment is not a sprint. It’s a “steady jog while you wear a hat, reapply SPF, and resist picking at your face.”
Three months, Allies of Skin, and me
Enter the Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum, a name as long as the ingredient list. The formula promised to tackle discoloration, redness, and uneven tone with a cocktail of 10 brighteners and peptides. Ambitious? Yes. But Allies has a reputation for overachieving, so I was keen.
The texture is lightweight, slightly silky — more like a serum-moisturiser hybrid than a watery essence. I applied two pumps morning and night (always under sunscreen during the day), and within a few weeks I was pretty sure I noticed my skin tone starting to even out. The angry patches on my cheekbones? Slightly calmer. The darker spot on my upper lip? Less “moustache” and more “subtle shadow.”
By month three, the difference was genuinely noticeable — I even have the before-and-after photos to prove it. And yes, I checked in the same lighting, in the same window, at the … well at similar time of day cause I couldn’t remember the time I initially picked. My skin looked more even, smoother, and dare I say… kinda luminous? Also go easy on me, I HATE sharing photos sans makeup or concealer because melasma makes a girl very self-conscious of her bare skin.
Is my melasma gone? No. It’s more like it’s been gently told to quiet down — still there, but less of a diva. And that’s the reality: melasma is chronic and can flare up again with the next holiday, hormonal change, or unplanned walk to the coffee shop sans hat. But seeing visible lightening without irritation felt like a skincare win worth celebrating.
The verdict
If you’re expecting a total pigment eraser, keep your expectations grounded. But if you want a brightening serum that actually makes a difference and plays nicely with other actives, Allies of Skin’s Tranexamic & Arbutin Serum is a worthy investment. It’s potent but gentle, chicly packaged, and earns every drop of its price tag through performance.
Will I repurchase? Absolutely — my melasma needs to know who’s boss and when it comes to disappearing stubborn pigment, consistency is key.
In her spare time, she likes long walks down the makeup aisle and performing in Brisbane theatre. You can follow her adventures on Instagram and TikTok @thebeautypalate.
