Brisbane has developed a healthy appetite for riverside dining, and Mulga Bill’s has one particularly persuasive feature on its side: the view. With the river providing the backdrop, it’s an appealing spot for a meal that comes with a generous helping of Brisbane scenery.
Of course, a pretty outlook can only do so much once the menus arrive, so we set about investigating the food with enthusiasm and a table that soon had a fairly broad selection of dishes on it.
We started with the seared Saku tuna salad, which pairs stracciatella cream with seasonal tomato and finger lime. The creamy cheese gives the dish a rich foundation, while the tomato and finger lime bring freshness and a citrusy lift. It’s a lovely combination for anyone who prefers to kick things off with something on the lighter side before the more substantial plates start making their way out.
The chicken souvlaki arrived with tahini yoghurt, and you can add pita bread for $6 (which of course we did). That extra bread is worth considering if you’re the sort of person who views a good sauce as something to be collected from the plate rather than abandoned there. The tahini yoghurt brings a nutty creaminess to the dish, making it a natural partner for the chicken.
Then there are the fries, which have been given the sort of treatment that makes them difficult to share graciously. Truffle aioli and grated parmesan take this familiar favourite into more indulgent territory, with the rich, savoury flavours making a convincing argument for ordering a bowl for the table. Negotiating the last few chips may require some diplomacy.
For something more substantial, the 250g Black Angus striploin from Portoro arrives with an MB5+ marble score, herb butter sauce and chimichurri. The two sauces offer different ways to enjoy the steak, with herb butter bringing richness and chimichurri adding a fresh, herbaceous kick. It’s a solid choice for steak lovers, particularly those who appreciate having a couple of accompaniments to play with.
The Quattro Formaggi pizza takes a similarly enthusiastic approach to its toppings, combining brie, gorgonzola, fior di latte and grana padano. Rocket, walnuts and wild honey round things out, bringing peppery freshness, crunch and sweetness to all that cheese. The honey is a particularly appealing addition, balancing the stronger flavours and giving each slice a little extra character.
It’s a menu that covers a fair bit of ground, from the freshness of the tuna salad to the full-on comfort-food appeal of four-cheese pizza and parmesan-topped fries. There’s room to order according to your appetite, which makes Mulga Bills an option for groups who can’t quite agree on what sort of meal they’re after.
Still, the river is the big drawcard here. Brisbane’s waterfront gives restaurants a natural advantage, and Mulga Bills makes the most of its position, with an outlook that reminds you why eating beside the river remains such a popular local pastime.
Add a menu with crowd-pleasing options and a few indulgent touches, and Mulga Bills has plenty to recommend it for your next Brisbane riverside meal.
Mulga Bill’s, 155 Alice Street, Brisbane City QLD 4000, (07) 2111 6800.
In her spare time, she likes long walks down the makeup aisle and performing in Brisbane theatre. You can follow her adventures on Instagram and TikTok @thebeautypalate.
