The weather is finally getting that slight chill thanks to the arrival of autumn. With the change of season comes the change of seasonal menus at some of our fave restaurants. We were recently lucky enough to get a preview of the new autumn/winter menu at C’est Bon by chef Andy Ashby and let me be the first to say “ooh la la!” 

Dining at C’est Bon is definitely an experience to be savoured. There is an air of relaxed elegance, of refined luxury and above all, authenticity when you walk in the doors.

The night we visit we are treated to a menu of coming additions to C’est Bon’s menu as the colder weather kicks in. The new dishes are a tribute to the rich and varied culinary traditions of France but some dishes feature a delightfully modern and new take on old favourites. 

duck eclairs sitting on a glass platter at C'est Bon
Duck eclairs… oui!

First cab off the rank was the autumn mushroom gougeres, and duck eclairs with a cherry cacao sauce and I think that savoury eclairs are my new favourite thing. The crispy outer eclair is filled with a light and flavoursome duck parfait and I could definitely nosh on these all night. But I can’t because there is a whole menu of goodness to come. 

Next up we have snapper tartare with pomme frites, cured yolk and bottarga (which is a fancy word for salted, cured fish roe pouch). I don’t partake in this course because I don’t eat seafood but those at the dinner said it was delightfully light and flavoursome, and lots of fun mixing the textures together. 

three plates with snapper tartare, pommes frites and accompaniments
Snapper tartare with accompaniments.

Then we have one of my personal faves, just because it was so unique: Qld butternut brulee. Yes another stunning savoury take on a traditionally sweet dish that was a taste sensation. I mean, just look at it. The toasted pepitas and caviar gave it a really nice texture juxtaposition from the smooth, creaminess of the butternut brulee (up in the main picture). 

Then it was showtime: and by that I mean time to set some scampi on fire in a vintage tableside cooking cart! Featuring brown butter and amaranth, the scampi dish was another I opted out of but thoroughly enjoyed the theatre of the cooking process and mini demonstration! 

scampi in a flaming pan being tossed by a chef
Lights, camera, fire!
Scampi dish with burnt brown butter sauce
The delish looking resulting scampi dish.

Next it was time for our share plate mains and what a treat they were. Westholme wagyu with spigarello (an italian green from the brassica family) with bone marrow and tomatillo. This one was heavenly; the meat was soft and buttery with a hearty smoky flavour coming through. 

Then there was the spice rubbed and roasted Wollemi duck breasts and my goodness they were a taste sensation. Chef Andy had earlier brought the whole duck (complete with bouquet garni stuffed in)  in to show us the process and explain their nose-to-tail dining concept. The breast meat, he explained, would be heading to our tables but every other part of the duck would also be used—for example, in their duck parfait. 

duck breasts on a white dish with purple accompaniment, with beef and carrots in the background
Duck breasts and wagyu and carrots, oh my!

The sides of bean a la grecque with almonds and shallots, and the charcoal carrots with burnt onion, gastrique and broadleaf were both perfectly matched with their meaty counterparts. 

It is at this point that I am beginning to get quite full, and lucky because it’s time for dessert. In what proved to be the perfect palate cleanser, we are served a blood plum granita with homemade burnt vanilla ice cream and fromage blanc. It’s light, it’s fresh, it’s exactly what I needed at the end of that hearty meal. Better still, plums are in season so it also fulfills the restaurant’s pledge to use seasonal ingredients.

glass of red wine alongside a small bowl of plum granita and a quenelle of vanilla ice cream at c'est bon
And to finish off…

During our dining experience, we are taken on a journey of France with a collection of delicious French wines. The sommelier was only too happy to give us a bit of background on each and I wholeheartedly recommend getting a paired drinks package if you can at C’est Bon, as it felt super fancy, as well as being matched very well to the dishes on offer. 

four empty wine bottles in a row
C’est Bon’s tour de vino.

All in all, C’est Bon’s new autumn/winter menu is a delicious mix of classic and boundary-pushing cuisine that demonstrates the skills of chef Andy and the team in the kitchen. If you want to impress someone when you take them out for a bite, this would definitely be high on my list. 

And make sure you have some time on your hands so you can savour every flavour. 

C’est Bon, 609/611 Stanley Street, Woolongabba. p. (07) 3891 2008

Elizabeth Best

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