The Story Bridge gets plenty of attention after dark, and for good reason. From Italian restaurant Massimo, it’s practically part of dinner.
As the bridge lights up across the river, the restaurant feels polished without feeling pretentious. An olive tree anchors the dining room, greenery spills through the space and everything leans into that relaxed Italian coastal aesthetic that makes you instinctively order another glass of wine because… well… it would feel rude not to.
Thankfully, the food gives you every excuse to stay.
The beetroot-cured salmon was first to arrive, looking less like an entrée and more like something that belonged under a glass case in a gallery. Delicate slices of salmon were layered with burnt capsicum cream while crisp rice wafers were balanced in neat little peaks over the top. Fortunately, it’s far more enjoyable to eat than admire (though it did feel rude to ruin the gorgeous aesthetic of the dish. Sorry chef!).
My dining companion reported that the salmon was silky and fresh, the beetroot brought just enough sweetness and the burnt capsicum cream added a subtle smokiness that lingered without taking over. Every bite felt light and beautifully balanced.
Next came the tortellini Bolognesi. I’d confidently prepared myself for a rich tomato-based Bolognese because apparently my brain decided to stop reading after the word “Bolognesi.” Instead, beautiful little parcels of tortellini arrived swimming in a creamy sauce with mortadella, spinach and peas.
I’m pleased to report the menu was right and I was wrong. Here, the Bolognesi described where the style of tortellini originated.
The pasta was wonderfully delicate, the filling rich without becoming heavy and the creamy sauce clung to every piece perfectly. The peas added little pops of sweetness while the mortadella brought just enough savoury depth to tie everything together.
Then the beef ragu arrived. It was the special on the night, which feels a little like discovering your new favourite song only to find out it was a limited release. The handmade pappardelle was cooked exactly as it should be, with just enough bite before giving way to a slow-cooked beef ragu that was rich, glossy and deeply comforting. Every ribbon of pasta carried just the right amount of sauce, while the beef had reached that magical stage where it had completely surrendered to the slow cooking. I’d happily order it again tomorrow.
Possibly today if someone asked nicely.
The lamb osso bucco was every bit as impressive. One touch of the fork and the meat simply gave up, falling away into fragrant saffron risotto that deserved almost as much attention as the lamb itself. Creamy without feeling heavy, delicately scented with saffron and soaking up every bit of the slow-cooked juices, it was exactly the sort of meal you want as Brisbane evenings start getting cooler.
My friend graciously let me have a bite or two of this dish and she’s right. It’s essentially a hug you can eat.
And after the amount of carbs that had just been consumed, dessert is where sensible people would have said, “I couldn’t possibly.” I have never been particularly sensible.
The torta cioccolato arrived layered with glossy gianduja ganache and crunchy hazelnut praline that delivered a satisfying contrast to the rich chocolate cake underneath. It was deeply chocolatey without becoming overwhelming, thanks to a scoop of ice cream that kept every bite feeling balanced.
Across the table, the buttermilk panna cotta disappeared with suspicious speed. I managed one bite before it vanished completely. Silky and creamy with seasonal peaches bringing bursts of freshness, it struck that perfect balance between rich and light, while crisp biscotti on the side added a welcome crunch.
Massimo gets plenty right. The riverside setting is spectacular. The dining room feels warm without trying too hard. The service gives you space to settle in.
But what stayed with me most was the food. Days later, I can still picture that bowl of tortellini Bolognesi and the perfect paparadelle of my ragu.
The Story Bridge is undeniably beautiful. The pasta, however, is what keeps finding its way back into my thoughts.
Massimo, 23 Eagle St, Brisbane City QLD 4000. p. (07) 3221 1663.
In her spare time, she likes long walks down the makeup aisle and performing in Brisbane theatre. You can follow her adventures on Instagram and TikTok @thebeautypalate.
