BY KATYIA WILLS
There are certain chefs in Brisbane who could announce they are opening a sandwich stall in a broom closet and we would still line up like it is Beyoncé tickets. Andy Ashby is one of them. One of the best dining experiences I have ever had in this city was at his Woolloongabba gem, C’est Bon, so when news of his Mexican style pop up Birria Boy landed, we were already excited.
Fast forward to last night’s media launch and we walked in as fans but left as margarita fuelled, cheese encased, birria dipped believers. And now that Birria Boy has officially ditched the pop-up label and committed to being a permanent Woolloongabba resident, please imagine cheers, applause and maybe a tiny celebratory shimmy.
A very smart move from a very smart chef
Chef Andy mentioned something at our media dinner that made perfect sense — an empty tenancy next to a restaurant can actually be a hindrance. No energy, no movement, no reason for people to wander in. So when good friends and former neighbours, Clarence, opened their new spot in Fish Lane, Chef Andy saw an opportunity worth jumping on.
Birria Boy fills the gap in the best way. It is fast, fun and loud, and it catches everyone. The pre-show Princess Theatre crowd, the one-margarita-turned-into-five girl gangs, the birthday tables, the late-night snackers, the people who just want to sit and sip something frozen and delicious. It is the kind of place that pulls people in rather than waiting for them to stroll past.
The space itself is vibey, rustic and full of great art. It feels relaxed, energetic and built for good times. Andy also hinted at DJ Sunday sessions, new dishes and more fun on the way now that the venue is sticking around for good.
Our verdict on the food (Spoiler: we’re obsessed)
Let’s talk about the GOAT of the night. Literally. The smoked Meredith goat ribs with cilantro and lemon were fall-apart tender, smoky and bright. If these ribs had a fan club, we would happily run it.
Close behind was the Meredith goat birria taco. A full cheese-encased situation that delivered a perfect 10 out of 10. A taco that makes you rethink every taco you have ever eaten.
The wood fired jalapeños with pork chorizo were delicious and rich, but for this very weak-tongued girly, a little spicy. If you can handle heat without reaching for a frozen margarita like it’s a life raft, you will be fine.
Speaking of margaritas, the drinks list leans heavily into agave spirits from small growers, plus a Mexican lager collaboration that goes down very easily. Until the wine list arrives, it’s BYO with twenty dollar corkage, which feels like a win.
Birria Boy is not just a pop up that stuck around. It is a high energy, flavour packed, margarita swirling good time and exactly the kind of place Brisbane needed. Andy Ashby has done it again. Woolloongabba has a new permanent resident and we have a new permanent obsession.
Birria Boy Taqueria, 17 Stanley St, Woolloongabba.
